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After last week\u2019s battering of celebrity perfume reviews, I decided I needed a bottle of something nice. Cartier Baiser Vol\u00e9,<\/a> to be precise. But buying it wasn\u2019t as simple as choosing a size and proffering a credit card. Baiser Vol\u00e9 comes in Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum. How do you choose between different formulations of the same fragrance?\u00a0<\/p>\n As the FAQs page<\/a> at Now Smell This lays out in more detail, different formulations of the same fragrance have different concentrations of the perfume base, with an Eau Fra\u00efche containing the least amount and Extrait the most. Knowing this, you might think choosing a formulation would depend on how strong you want the fragrance or how long you want it to last. In fact, it\u2019s not that simple.<\/p>\n First, lasting power (also called \u201cpersistence\u201d) has more to do with the materials used in a fragrance than with its concentration. Plus, with a lesser concentration, you\u2019re apt to apply more. For instance, a dab of Guerlain Vol de Nuit<\/a> Extrait lasts about four hours on me. Vol de Nuit Eau de Toilette, which I spray three or four times when I use it, lasts at least that long. Also, a Cologne in one fragrance will often outlast the Extrait version of another fragrance. Witness Hannah Montana<\/a> Cologne spray. My money would be on Hannah Montana to outlast plutonium, let alone Patou Joy<\/a>\u00a0Extrait.1<\/sup><\/p>\n Next, for each fragrance that comes in different formulations, the formulations often smell like different \u2014 although related \u2014 scents. For instance, perfume lovers know that if they adore a particular classic Guerlain in Extrait, they may well detest the Eau de Toilette version of the same fragrance.\u00a0Really complicating matters, perfume lines drop and add different formulations over the years. You might become attached to the Eau de Toilette version of a fragrance one year and find it discontinued or replaced by an Eau de Parfum the next.<\/p>\n Here are a few of my observations about fragrance formulations. I hope you\u2019ll add your own discoveries to the comments:<\/p>\n Extrait (also called Parfum or Extrait de Parfum)<\/span>: A fragrance newbie might think Extrait would be the strongest version of a fragrance with the heftiest sillage, but Extrait often wears subtly and close to the body. If you think about it, it makes sense. Other forms of fragrance contain more alcohol, which diffuses fragrance as it evaporates on skin. I like to wear Extrait when I want a close, personal aura of fragrance, or if I know I\u2019ll be around a lot of competing fragrances, and I don\u2019t want to be part of a perfumed soup. Extrait tends to present the most sophisticated version of a fragrance, and some perfume companies reserve their best quality materials for Extraits. Extrait, although expensive, is wonderful to wear. These days, it\u2019s increasingly rare for a perfume house to make Extrait versions of their fragrances, and if they are made, they aren\u2019t always easy to find (and they’re often limited edition). That\u2019s too bad.<\/p>\n As an example, Baiser Vol\u00e9 in Extrait cloaks its silky-powdery heart in an earthy, almost truffled, note. It\u2019s a little dirtier than the Eau de Parfum, more like velvety-ripe skin rubbed with lily than the bathed and powdered skin of the Eau de Parfum. My local Nordstrom had a tester of the Extrait but none in stock. If I wanted to buy it, I\u2019d have to order it.<\/p>\n Eau de Parfum<\/span>: Eau de Parfum is now often the highest \u2014 and sometimes the only \u2014 concentration of a fragrance sold, especially in department stores. It\u2019s worth noting that Eau de Parfum became popular in the 1980s, so the Eau de Parfum versions of vintage fragrances may be tweaked to appeal more to modern tastes. For instance, the Eau de Parfum version of Chanel No. 5<\/a> is smoother and \u201ceasier\u201d to wear than the Eau de Toilette or Extrait versions of the same fragrance. This isn\u2019t always true, though. To me,\u00a0Guerlain Mitsouko<\/a> Eau de Parfum is closer to the Extrait than is the Eau de Toilette (although, confusingly, the vintage Eau de Cologne smells closest of all).\u00a0<\/p>\n Baiser Vol\u00e9 launched in Eau de Parfum, and when people think of what Baiser Vol\u00e9 smells like, the Eau de Parfum is their benchmark. It\u2019s a \u201cstraight\u201d version of the fragrance \u2014 serious and not particularly witty, but lovely all the same.<\/p>\n Eau de Toilette<\/span>: Sometimes a fragrance is only released in Eau de Toilette. If the fragrance comes in more concentrations, the Eau de Toilette will often be a fresher version with a greater focus on top notes. \u00a0<\/p>\n This is certainly true for Baiser Vol\u00e9\u2019s new Eau de Toilette. The Eau de Toilette adds juicy mandarin and a helping of jasmine to Baiser Vol\u00e9\u2019s signature lily heart. It also tones down the powder. It\u2019s bright and citrusy and doesn\u2019t last as long as the Eau de Parfum. \u00a0<\/p>\n Eau de Cologne and Cologne Spray<\/span>: Eau de Cologne versions of fragrance used to crowd perfume store shelves, but not anymore. (Vintage perfume fans know to look for Eau de Cologne versions of their favorite fragrances.) Even classic Eaux de Cologne \u2014 the splash-it-on, citrusy, 4711<\/a>-type fragrances \u2014 are often actually Eau de Toilette or even Eau de Parfum strength these days. For example, Chanel Eau de Cologne<\/a> is an Eau de Toilette.<\/p>\n At the drugstore, Cologne sprays are much easier to find, and some drugstore fragrances only come in Cologne spray. Again, remember that just because something is labeled \u201cCologne spray\u201d or \u201cNatural spray,\u201d it still might last all day on skin.<\/p>\n Parfum de Toilette<\/span>: I\u2019ve never seen a Parfum de Toilette offered for sale new, but before Eau de Parfum became popular, some fragrances came in the richer-than-EdT Parfum de Toilette version. Keep your eyes open for the wonderful Guerlain Parfum de Toilette concentrations at thrift stores and estate sales.<\/p>\n In the end, I chose Baiser Vol\u00e9 Eau de Toilette. I wanted something light and easy to wear in the heat, but complex enough not to bore me. I wanted to be able to spray the fragrance freely and even mist a few lampshades without the fragrance getting overbearing. The Eau de Toilette fit the bill. When fall comes, though \u2014 watch out wallet. The Extrait is calling my name.<\/p>\n What perfume formulations do you prefer, and why?<\/p>\n Note: the top image shows Baiser Vol\u00e9 in Eau de Toilette (green, left, 50 ml for $85) and Eau de Parfum (pink, right, 50 ml for $100). The lower image shows Baiser Vol\u00e9 in Extrait (30 ml for $200).<\/p>\n 1. In case that doesn’t already make it clear, expensive raw materials don’t necessarily last longer than cheap raw materials, and a fragrance’s lasting power is not necessarily a sign of “quality” or increased investment in the juice.<\/p>\n Read the rest of this article »<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" After last week\u2019s battering of celebrity perfume reviews, I decided I needed a bottle of something nice. Cartier Baiser Vol\u00e9,<\/a> to be precise. But buying it wasn\u2019t as simple as choosing a size and proffering a credit card. Baiser Vol\u00e9 comes in Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum and Extrait de Parfum. How do you choose between different formulations of the same fragrance? <\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/cartier-baiser-extrait.jpg\")
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