{"id":34179,"date":"2010-03-27T12:40:20","date_gmt":"2010-03-27T16:40:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/?p=34179"},"modified":"2014-11-02T14:50:04","modified_gmt":"2014-11-02T19:50:04","slug":"atelier-cologne-grand-neroli-and-orange-sanguine-fragrance-review","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2010\/03\/27\/atelier-cologne-grand-neroli-and-orange-sanguine-fragrance-review\/","title":{"rendered":"Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli and Orange Sanguine ~ fragrance review"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/Atelier-lineup.jpg\" alt=\"Atelier Cologne packaging\" width=\"311\" height=\"200\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Atelier Cologne, a new niche perfume house based in Paris and New York, recently introduced its range of <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2010\/01\/31\/atelier-cologne-new-fragrances\/\">five fragrances<\/a>. Atelier&#8217;s signature concept is the \u201ccologne absolue&#8221;:\u00a0fragrances inspired by the historic recipe of the original &#8220;Eau de Cologne&#8221; \u2014 a mixture of citrus and herbal ingredients \u2014 but blended in stronger concentrations for a richer and more lasting effect. Each of the fragrances in Atelier&#8217;s debut collection is centered around a citrus motif, and each is intended to embody a &#8220;singular moment&#8221; of memory and experience.<\/p>\n<p>My current favorite from Atelier is <span class=\"hat\">Grand N\u00e9roli<\/span>, created by perfumer <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/perfumers-f-to-k\/#CecileKrakower\">C\u00e9cile Krakower<\/a>. Grand N\u00e9roli\u00a0opens with a radiant burst of <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/perfume-glossary\/#neroli\">neroli<\/a> and orange blossom (those two lovely, but differently-achieved, products of the same flower). This opening accord is soon pierced by more astringent notes of lemon and petitgrain, for a lively blend that mellows after an hour or so. Grand N\u00e9roli&#8217;s middle phase includes a salty aspect with a very subtle\u00a0\u201cbeachy\u201d feeling, but it never becomes as marine-like as <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2006\/08\/16\/he-saysshe-says-le-labo-neroli-36\/\">Le Labo Neroli 36<\/a>. The galbanum seems to extend the citrus notes without turning them too green, and the vanilla and amber are detectable only as a gentle warmth in the base; this is definitely not a gourmand scent. Grand N\u00e9roli ends up feeling almost like a &#8220;skin scent&#8221; for me, if the skin in question were sun-warmed and healthy. It\u2019s the most \u201cfeminine\u201d Atelier fragrance, and the company&#8217;s description alludes to the wedding symbolism of its orange blossom. However, it could also be worn by a man, especially\u00a0once the initial floral note dissolves.<\/p>\n<p>The promotional text for <span class=\"hat\">Orange Sanguine<\/span> evokes a breakfast gathering on a sunlit terrace overlooking the Mediterranean, and this fragrance is certainly the \u201cbrightest\u201d of the five. It was created by perfumer <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/perfumers-l-to-s\/#RalfSchwieger\">Ralf Schwieger<\/a> (who won my heart years ago by composing Lipstick Rose for Editions de Parfums Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle), and it\u2019s an uncannily accurate representation of a blood orange: if you closed your eyes and someone waved an Orange Sanguine-permeated blotter in front of you, you\u2019d easily believe that you were smelling an actual piece of fruit. Orange Sanguine\u2019s composition captures the blood orange&#8217;s sweet pulp, slightly bitter pith, and zesty rind all at once. It turns smoother and very slightly creamy after an hour or so, perhaps due to its notes of jasmine and tonka bean. \u00a0However, the lasting finish is still orange-y, a bit more subdued than the opening, with a hint of green tartness. Orange Sanguine is more vivid than orange scents like <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2006\/11\/10\/loccitane-ruban-dorange-fragrance-review\/\">L&#8217;Occitane Ruban d&#8217;Orange<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2006\/05\/04\/lartisan-mandarine-tout-simplement-fragrance-review\/\">L\u2019Artisan Parfumeur Mandarine Tout Simplement<\/a>, for example, and it doesn\u2019t have any intrusive woody or spicy notes to distract from its fruity \u201chologram\u201d effect (as <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2009\/10\/30\/new-paperback-version-of-perfumes-the-guide\/\"><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Perfumes: The Guide<\/span><\/a> would say).<\/p>\n<p>The Atelier Cologne line was produced in collaboration with Mane and Robertet, two suppliers known for their focus on natural materials, and the scents do give the impression of utilizing a high percentage of natural ingredients. A fine attention to detail runs throughout the brand\u2019s presentation, from the hand-applied leather caps and the removable atomizer attachments to the beautifully arranged and photographed still-life vignettes for each scent (credited to set designer Nathalie Cassegrain and photographer David Meredith). It\u2019s not an inexpensive line, but the bottles are large, and the fragrances have above-average staying power for citrus scents. I&#8217;ve just started making the transition to lighter clothing (and fragrances) for spring, and Grand N\u00e9roli seems appropriate for this change, while Orange Sanguine feels like a preview of summer.<\/p>\n<p>Atelier Cologne is carried by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bergdorfgoodman.com\">Bergdorf Goodman<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.neimanmarcus.com\">Neiman Marcus<\/a>.\u00a0 Grand N\u00e9roli sells for $155 (200 ml) and Orange Sanguine sells for $145 (200 ml).<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"display-posts-title\">Possibly of interest<\/h2>\n<div class=\"display-posts-listing\"><div class=\"listing-item\"><a class=\"title\" href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2022\/06\/30\/aedes-de-venustas-corfu-kumquat-fragrance-review\/\">Aedes de Venustas Corfu Kumquat ~ fragrance review<\/a><\/div><div class=\"listing-item\"><a class=\"title\" href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2021\/09\/21\/antica-farmacista-happy-hour-fragrance-review\/\">Antica Farmacista Happy Hour ~ fragrance review<\/a><\/div><div class=\"listing-item\"><a class=\"title\" href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2021\/01\/07\/serge-lutens-des-clous-pour-une-pelure-fragrance-review\/\">Serge Lutens Des Clous pour une Pelure ~ fragrance review<\/a><\/div><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2010\/03\/27\/atelier-cologne-grand-neroli-and-orange-sanguine-fragrance-review\/\">Read the rest of this article <span class=\"meta-nav\">&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/Atelier-lineup.jpg\" alt=\"Atelier Cologne packaging\" width=\"311\" height=\"200\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Atelier Cologne, a new niche perfume house based in Paris and New York, recently introduced its range of <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2010\/01\/31\/atelier-cologne-new-fragrances\/\">five fragrances<\/a>. Atelier&#8217;s signature concept is the \u201ccologne absolue&#8221;: fragrances inspired by the historic recipe of the original &#8220;Eau de Cologne&#8221; \u2014 a mixture of citrus and herbal ingredients \u2014 but blended in stronger concentrations for a richer and more lasting effect. Each of the fragrances in Atelier&#8217;s debut collection is centered around a citrus motif, and each is intended to embody a &#8220;singular moment&#8221; of memory and experience.<\/p>\n<p>My current favorite from Atelier is <span class=\"hat\">Grand N\u00e9roli<\/span>, created by perfumer <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/perfumers-f-to-k\/#CecileKrakower\">C\u00e9cile Krakower<\/a>. Grand N\u00e9roli opens with a radiant burst of <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/perfume-glossary\/#neroli\">neroli<\/a> and orange blossom (those two lovely, but differently-achieved, products of the same flower). This opening accord is soon pierced by more astringent notes of lemon and petitgrain, for a lively blend that mellows after an hour or so. Grand N\u00e9roli&#8217;s middle phase includes a salty aspect with a very subtle \u201cbeachy\u201d feeling, but it never becomes as marine-like as <a href=\"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/2006\/08\/16\/he-saysshe-says-le-labo-neroli-36\/\">Le Labo Neroli 36<\/a>. The galbanum seems to extend the citrus notes without turning them too green&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[1638,877,43,1737,1315,1557],"class_list":{"0":"post-34179","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-perfume-talk","7":"tag-atelier-cologne","8":"tag-cecile-krakower","9":"tag-citrus","10":"tag-neroli","11":"tag-orange","12":"tag-ralf-schwieger","13":"entry"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34179","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=34179"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/34179\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=34179"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=34179"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nstperfume.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=34179"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}